Running through the hot sand 
To the edge of the wave laping cold water over my toes
I think it might be too cold...
Then I run in anyway currents pulling at my ankles
And surf board heavy in my arms
A wave approaches I grab my board and push it under
The waves salty fingers comb my hair back into a sleek style
Finally I reach that peaceful calm where the waves barely peak
And the sea breeze chills my hair as the sun warms it

I wait for the perfect wave
Powerful enough to carry the board
But smooth enough for a safe ride
A perspective wave curls
I start paddling hurriedly
Hoping this will work
I glide forward. YIPEE!!!
I find my balance and stand
I feel like I'm soaring
I hope it never ends but the shore quickly approaches
I stop and head back to the sea for another exhilarating flight