The wall of the wave comes powering forward from a small distance

My heart races with beat of my stroke as I paddle into a good position

The powerful wave picks me up and helps as an assistance

Riding the face I become one with the ocean, the feeling is such an addiction

The instant thrill of the drop and gliding through the barrel is something you can’t compare

Claiming your freedom while coasting, time ceases to exist with the peaceful state of the sea

The effortless movements with your board, gaining speed while breathing in the salty air

As carving the swell, the pound of the tide and spray of the waves creates a beautiful harmony

Catching the wave is like a drug, always hoping for it again

You never want it to end